Saturday, 20 February 2010

Nearly There!

Jamaica racing through the Yellow Sea

Sent: Saturday 20th February 2010

Position: 034degs 36' 14N  121degs 59' 07E

Boat time: 06:30hrs

Less than 100 miles to go and its getting exciting! All the boats are very close and the tactics are really under pressure to pay off. Spirit of Australia is just a few miles ahead and we're trying our bestest to catch them in time! Only 12-ish hours left!

When we arrive in Qingdao the celebrations are expected to be huge! According to Greg, one of the maintenence team in port (and my new best friend after I made flapjacks in Batam on 'maintenence mother'), people treat you like heroes and celebrities! He wasn't even sailing on one of the boats last time round but had his Clipper branded clothes on and somebody just handed him a baby to have his picture taken with! Next thing he knew, there was a whole queue of babies waiting to have their picture taken with him! Apparently, each boat has 4000 drummers and dancers dressed in team colours and a massive firework display on arrival! But if we arrive in the night, for some reason we have to wait until morning to go in. It seems the dancers need to sleep which some of the crew members aren't too happy about but, personally, I think the wait will be worth it!

Its still very chilly and the layers are on. I'm currently wearing 3 base layer leggings (normal, marino wool and cotton) two base layer tops (normal and merino), a thin fleece, my lovely snuggly romper suit-type mid layer trousers, my fab new pink fleecey mid layer jacket, two pairs of socks (cotton and merino!), two hats, gloves and full foulies and I'm still chilly on deck! The problem is it's not really much warmer down below - especially in the crew accomodation. Luckily, I have sussed the layers of my sleeping bag and keeping on the bottom base layer is essential to stay snuggly!

Despite the layers, I appear to be coming down with a bit of a cold. I've got a headache, achey arms and legs, runny nose, sore eyes, and am slightly emotional and grumpy! All in all, it's probably good for everyone that we're nearly there! Looking forward to a couple of days in Beijing whilst in China with some of the crew members and the prize giving ceremony should be fantastic! It's broadcast on Chinese national television so be sure to you-tube it!

Hope England is a little warmer than it is here but I'm still jealous we've not had any snow yet! Fingers crossed we may get some soon - I'm determined to make a Snow Angel on the side deck! Keep your fingers crossed for another top finish position for Jamaica! xxx

Wednesday, 17 February 2010

Greetings from the East China Sea

Jamaica takes another wave in the China Sea

Sent:: 17th February 2010

Position: 027degs 57'55 N  123degs 05'13 E

Boat time: 11:05hrs

Hello from the East China Sea. And don't we know we've arrived! The last few days have been a roller coaster of big seas, heavy weather and wet evolutions! (sail changes) Not to mention the temperature plummeting rapidly and still on the decrease! Whoop! Whoop! It's been a little while since I last wrote as, for some time, we were having to use 2 keyboards as only half the letters on each one were working! Very, very tedious so it's been a bit quiet in the nav station.

Before the weather started, I managed to get a good few days of learning in. Charles has taught me how to use a sextant to get our position from the sun. I can 'bring the sun down' to the horizon and get a pretty accurate angle reading but the sums which follow afterwards are a little out my league! They will have to wait 'til I'm some where steady and not moving and where I've got several hours to waste! I can follow the gist but would be lost by myself - apparently we're in Kenya.......dohhh!

I've been helping out with a bit of the maintenance around the boat as well. I helped Matt fix the port-side heads (loo) the other day. We took it completely apart, replaced a couple of springs, put in a new rubber washer and put it back together again. It's not working quite perfectly but a lot better than it was! I also helped him replace the diaphragm on the grey water tank pump, too, which was a much simpler procedure just in a trickier place, especially as lunch was being prepared around us as we worked! Then, whilst on the maintenence spree, Skip showed me how to tension the steering cables, something that apparently needed doing quite badly!

The phosphoresence the last few nights has been incredible, possibly because the sea has been rough so the little phosphors have been very agitated! I was trying to work out if it would be possible to catch some and take it home but I dont think American customs (when I get off the boat in San Francisco) would be too impressed: "And whats that large jar of liquid you are carrying Miss?". "Oh, it's just some phosphoresence I caught in the China Sea!" Yeah, that would work!

I'm sure most of you will have heard about Team Finland losing the top section of their mast. Not entirely sure what caused it but everybody is safe with no injuries and they are in a Taiwanese port repairing it as we speak. It is expected that they will sail under jury rig (a sort of heath robinson thing cobbled together from what's left of the rig) and motor to Qingdoa but we don't know if they will be able to rejoin the race yet. However, the newsletter says they had a warm welcome and everybody is in good spirits, joining the local coastgaurds for a bit of karaoke!

We have suffered some minor damage, too, but nothing on a major scale. The other night we lost the top six hanks on the stay sail and ended up having to replace all of them before we could re-hoist. Also, this morning, just as we came on watch at 8am, the snap shackle at the top of the Yankee halyard snapped (thats the bit that holds the foresail up) and it came crashing to the deck. Luckily, we got hold of it before it went over board and we quickly swapped to the spare and re-hoisted.

After spending a couple of days with the minium amount of mainsail (3 reefs in) and the storm jib and stay sail, its a relief to finally have a more normal sail plan! 1 reef in the main, Yankee 3 foresail and stay sail. Some of the waves we've had have been crazy and I've found myself: being physically thrown into the bunk above me as the boat comes crashing down off the back of a wave; clinging to the inner stay trying to get the staysail down; swinging off the lazy sheet to allow it to come down; screaming "Yeehaaa!" as the next wave crashes over us and.....I woke up this morning to the sight of my breath condensing in the air above my face. It's getting very cold! Apparently, this is what we signed up for! But despite how horrific it sounds, I've still possibly had some of the best moments so far! xxx

PS. Thankyou for all the comments. Dad keeps passing them on. It's really great to know that everyone is still so interested and following the race so closely! We'll be getting those points again dont you worry!

Lily update

Dear followers of Lily's blog, I've been trying for several days to get word of Lily and finally got a message from her early this morning. They are in the China Sea and have been suffering severe weather and mountainous seas for the last few days. But she said all is well and they are pushing on for Quingdao. I will post blog in next day or so. Regards, Alan (Lily's Daddy)

Friday, 12 February 2010

Is there anybody out thereee! / The pros and cons of being at sea - Part 2


Sent: 10th February 2010

Position: 016degs 34' 65N 116degs 06' 48E

Boat time: 08:20hrs

Part 2! The pros and cons of life onboard!

Before joining the boat, whether as a round the worlder, a legger or a somewhere-in-betweener (like me!), everybody has thier own ideas of what they expect the boat to be like, how they expect to cope and how they will get on with people. They will also think they know what they want to get out of the race and what they will have acheived by the end of it. For the most part, these ideas are completely changed within the first few days on board. For me, here are some the unexpected things that I didn't necesarily expect......

The bad bit first!:

There is no privacy! Even in the heads (loo) people know what you're doing and hidden away in your bunk people can still see you and talk to you, and sometimes you just want to escape and have a bit of time to yourself;

There is also no escaping the smells of yourself and of other people. Fortunately, over time you build an immunity to the regular smells;

Sometimes - after a hard watch of racing, headsail changes, putting in and shaking out reefs, tough weather and hard work - all you want is a few minutes to catch your breath, relax and re-focus. However you know that when the conditions are like that, then the call for next task will be almost immediate whether it's to repack a sail, rehoist, tack, or any number of tasks, and you know it will keep going until your watch is finally over;

There is no respite from the weather extremes, whether hot or cold. We have fans in our bunks but even with them on when it is really hot they offer little comfort. With cold, after sitting on deck in freezing conditions for 4 hours, even getting into a fully lined ocean sleeping bag has little effect on your frozen toes! When your kit gets wet with salt water it will stay wet until you next get a chance to wash it in fresh water - sometimes not until you get to port - and finding shade from the sun is almost impossible, especially near Midday;

Mother watch! 24hours of being stuck below decks, hot and sweaty, cooking and cleaning for everybody and often feeling ill (although this time I survived a whole Mother with no hiccups or squiffy moments at all - progress!). You can only cook what you are told to cook and you only eat what your given;

Hygiene could be a lot better! Especially in the heads which often leak and, if one is broken, the other has to serve all 18 people onboard sometimes. Smells around the boat are really bad, and showers are few and far between;

Sleep is quite often hard because of conditions above and below deck e.g. too hot or cold, too rough, the other watch doing a noisey evolution (sail change). Also, when you are told to get up there is no snooze button. you have to get up no matter how tired you are and whatever the conditions. This is possibly one of the hardest bits for me being a teenager!

Being cut off from the outside world can sometimes leave you feeling out of touch with what is going on in the world.

And the good bits:

The team environment is fantastic and there is always somebody around if you need them. I expected to make friends but not as firmly and quickly as has happened;

Everybody onboard has found that it is easiest just to be yourelf completely and there is no pretence;

Keeping us going through the tough moments is the united competetitive spirit and the excitement of the race. There is nothing more satisfying than when the sched (scheduled reports from all the other boats) comes in and you see that we've taken miles out of all the other boats and we know our hard work has paid off;

When the weather is good it's fantastic. With warm sunshine and good breezes an excellent tan is just one of the side effects, one I have not experienced properly before;

Sunrise, sunset, starry nights, phosphoresence, shooting stars, wildlife and sounds of the ocean. Nothing will be able to replace these when I get home! My favourite time of day is from about an hour before dawn until the sun is about half way up. The colours of dawn are much more subtle and relaxing than sunset and the gentle, fresh sunlight on your face as it just appears over the horizon on a clear morning is one of the best feelings ever;

We have seen quite a lot of wildlife including dolphins, whales, tuna, flying fish and a variety of birds. When you see these animals you are always over come by a great sense of privilege that you have been lucky enough to see them in the wild;

Mother watch means you only have to cook and clean once a week and the rest of the time you have somebody else attending to your every need! Also, when you do Mother watch you are allowed your weekly shower!!!

No one cares if you wear the same t-shirt for a week because everybody does anyway;

Exactly half your time is dedicated to eating or sleeping so you can usually find time somewhere to catch up;

Being cut off from the internet, mobiles, cars, rush hour etc is really refreshing. Sometimes in port, you miss the peace and quiet of being on the boat;

On watch is never boring! whether you're chatting, playing games (eye-spy, the name game, I went to ... and I bought ...), enjoying the scenery, lots of tea, coffee, biscuits and chocolate, or whether learning skills from rope work to cooking to coping with life on board in general. There is always plenty going on.

And of course, the most important 'pro' of them all:

We are sailing round the world and nothing can beat that!

Thanks for all your comments on the blog. It's really nice to know you're all out there following our progress. Don't stop posting comments. Dad copies them all back to me and I can't tell you how nice it to hear from people and what a lift I get when I read the messages.

Things have been fairly quiet sailing wise since we left 'Singers' but I've a feeling it's about to change with some stronger NE winds setting in that mean big seas and a rough ride.

Keep an eye on the blog and do visit: http://www.clipperroundtheworld.com/ for regular race updates. Lily x

Is there anybody out thereee! / The pros and cons of being at sea - Part 1


So this blog comes in two parts. I was going to write about the pros and cons of life at sea but that will now have to wait for the morning as I have compeltely lost all train thought! This is why...

Sent: 10th February 2010

Position: 015degs 42' 07 N  115degs 14'03 E

Boat time: 23:10hrs

Part 1 - Is there anybody out thereeeee!?!

Last night one of the spookiest things happened so far on the race. We were talking about haunted houses and such things and chatting away on the Midnight 'til 4am night watch, when a line of lights appeared on the water. We thought at first that they were far away and on the horizon but suddenly they were very close. We couldn't tell what they were - whether they were a line of lit bouys or small boats or what? Then one of the lights grew another light which started shining at us like a spotlight and seemed to be getting closer. We then got out our bigger spotlight and shined it at the lights to try and determine what it was. We saw a small boat coming towards us and we tried to intimidate it with our own spotlight. We couldn't get a much of a visual on the vessel but it stopped coming towards us at any rate and we passed by undisturbed.

Tonight we have seen more of these lights. They form in perfectly straight lines which makes us think that they are little Phillipino fishing boats. Even though the boats seem impossibly small to be 240 miles from land, they line themsleves up in absolutely dead straight lines and as you go past they all flash their torches to let you know they are there. it is one of the most surreal and beautiful sights to see strings of the boats all prefectly lined up in the pitch dark.

Tonight we passed about 30 metres from one as he didn't have his light on and only had a torch at the last minute. But it confirmed how small the boats are and we saw at least one person in it. Not a job I would like, that's for sure!
  
Read the next blog to get a feel for what's good and what's bad about living on board a thoroughbred racing yacht with 17 other people.

Sunday, 7 February 2010

All aboard the good ship 'Jamaica'

Jamaica Lightning Bolt in light winds off Singapore

Sent: Saturday 6th February 2010

Position:
006degs 10' 99N   108degs 35' 33E

Boat time: 08:30hrs

All aboard the good ship 'Jamaica' for the time of your life! Watch the subtle dawns and gentle sunrises, stunning sunets and star-filled nights. Be gently rocked to sleep by little rollers. Chill out on deck during the day listening to your faviourite tunes as you take the helm and relax afterwards with an ice cold drink in the sun!.....Well almost, Pingu, the ice maker, is having a bit of a melt down (excuse the pun!) so ice is in short supply. But apart from that, the story so far pretty much fills this picture.

Occasionally, we have to stir our stumps and put in a quick tack. Sometimes four or five per watch - which can also disturb your sleep if you're off watch as you get rolled to the other side of your almost level bunk! - but then its straight back to relaxing. Thankfully, the weather is starting to cool off a little bit, especially at night, and I managed a full watch in bed without my bunk fan buzzing away in the backgroud. The days are still roasting but less humid than before so a bit more bearable.

The last few days have been an improvement for me as I have been much more involved in the sailing of the boat. Being given a chance in the snake pit (central workstation for all the halyards and other ropes) on the last race, and having passed my 'pit proficeincy test', means that I am now allowed to do more than hold sail ties during evolutions! (sail changes). My new watch leader, Matt, is very good at sharing the jobs around so we're not all doing the same thing all the time. I've spent lots of time on the helm, too, an hour yesterday morning and a stint on both night watches last night - in the dark! Things must be improving!

With the weather set to stay like this until we reach Taiwan, morale is high and everybody is enjoying the more relaxed atmosphere onboard. Like, 'Peace, Man', and keep reading dudes xxx

Thursday, 4 February 2010

Singapore Slings and Calm Seas

Lily on radar watch

Sent: 3rd February 2010

Boat time: 22:10hrs

Position:
001degs 54' 71N (Yes, back in the Northern hemisphere heading for winter!)
106degs 49' 81E

So here we are back on the water. How time flies when we're having fun! Can't believe we were in port for almost as long as we were in Oz. 15 days in total. Singapore is an interesting place with lots going on. I wasn't a fan of the main commercial areas such as Orchard Road and Clarke Quay. Orchard Road must have at least 5 Armani shops, 7 Gucci and 12 Prada! as well as all the normal Topshop, River Island etc! There are shops on ground, above ground, behind ground, below ground, to the side of ground...... everywhere! Some people might like it but none of the shops seemed useful! I did eventually find what I was looking for (a mid-layer jacket) in one the malls nearer the marina.

If you are prepared to look around a bit, there are lots of other parts to Singapore which are fabulous! China Town is one of my favourite places ever! At night there is a street market with a whole road dedicated to food, which is the cheapest and yummiest place to eat ever! We ate there twice and and never spent more than 10 dollars - about £4 or £5! - and it's so much nicer than the big restaurants, too. The next best place to eat was Little India. When you step out of the tube station, the smell of spices hits you straight away! The market there is smaller but much more colourful. But my favourite part of Singapore, though, was definitely the Botanic Gardens. They're massive and each section is stunning. Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to go into the national orchid gardens but they are supposed to be the best display of orchids in the world.

Of course, whilst in Singapore, we went to Raffles. As a belated birthday treat, my very lovely crew treated me to a Singapore Sling in the long bar and afternoon tea in the tea room. The afternoon tea was definitely nicer than the Singapore Sling. Not really sure I'm a fan of the cherry liqueur they put in it!

Leaving 'Singers' was a great show. Cleared customs at 6am then a complimentary brekky buffet put on by the marina - choccy muffins, noodles, dragon fuit (my favourite!) and all sorts of other bits! We then met the ex-Prime Minister and walked down the pontoon as a team back to the boat as our boat songs played. When we slipped our berth, we headed out of the marina and had to cross the TSS (shipping lanes) before we could start. There was no wind at the planned start location so we moved further towards Nogsapura (where we stayed in Batam) and started there. It was hard on the wind for the start but, with so little of it, no-one moved very quickly over the line! We tacked all the way out of the Singapore Straits and into open water where we are still tacking as we try and make against the wind towards our next stop, Qingdao.

It should be upwind all the way to China but whether it is a welcome change is doubtful matter! At the moment we are enjoying nice gentle weather and flat seas. But, as we learnt on the last race, it can all change very quickly! The further north we go the weather will change from hot and steamy summer to cold and icy winter by the time we reach Qingdao. And, as if that wasn't bad enough, as we head up the China Sea, we will sail into stronger head winds from the north east and this, coupled with currents in the opposite direction, all makes for rough seas and a rough passsage! Hopefully, though, we won't see too much snow until we're on final approach for Qingdao. The last couple of days, maybe! Quingdao is about 2,500NM and it should take us about 3 weeks to get there.

In case you didn't know, Clipper have told us that Cork (who had to abandon their boat in the Java Sea during the race up to Singapore) are getting a replacement boat but it won't be available until May in Panama. So, until then, Cork crew have all been taken in by the other boats. The Cork thing was scary but one of the really nice things about this race is that, although we are competing against each other, actually, we are all one big family and we all look out for one another be it at sea or ashore! I first learnt the value of this ethic when I was at junior school in Dodleston. Education accepted, we were always encouraged to look out for and help the other children in the school. It's been with me ever since.

For now, it's night watch. The stars are out, the sails are nicely filled and I've got my shorts and t-shirt on! The last 3-hourly report in to the race office showed that, after a poor start, we had climbed into 5th place and eveybody is happy! COME ON, JAMAICA! xxx

PS. If you are reading my Blog, I'd love it if you posted a comment for me. I feel rather lonely when nobody puts any comments on. Love, Lily x

And, don't forget, you can follow the race in detail at: http://www.clipperroundtheworld.com/