The Sunda Straits and the Java Sea or, 'From Krakatoa to Cork!'

Saturday 16th January 2010

Position: 000degs 50'252S   106degs 59'000E

Boat time: 04:50hrs

What an eventful few days we've been having! I suppose the best place to start would be the beginning! I never thought I would love and hate cloud so much at the same time! Apart from a clear night tonight it has been cloudy since the final approaches to the Sunda Straits. And with the cloud has come the wind, a welcome relief from the heat but squalls and gusts can be worrying. As we approached the Straits we were heeled over, close-hauled and screaming along with 3 reefs in the mainsail and yankee 2 (foresail) bashing into the waves. Sitting on the high side or on station in the snake pit. we were getting soaked by wave after wave! Luckily, the water felt about the temperature of a nice bath so I didn't mind too much being stuck in my foulie bottoms and t-shirt! As we got really close and tucked into the land before bearing away into the Straits, some of the gusts were incredible and there was someone stationed on all the sheets (ropes) .......'In case we get knocked-down', the Skipper casually mentioned!........ One wave, while I waited by the staysail sheet, managed to completely fill the snake pit (the working point for most of the ropes) and I was washed forwards but found myself still on my feet although I was up to my waste in water! Luckily, I don't think I could have been and wetter anyway! It's a miracle my lifejacket didn't inflate!

We passed Krakatoa in the dark that night and all we saw was a dark lump a little way off on the horizon. I had asked the Skip if he could arrange passing it by day but he said night time would be better because we'd see it all lit up. Ha! it was just another lump of rock on the horizon - very disappointed! Bearing away (turning down wind) into the Straits calmed the waves down and we had a fairly peaceful off-watch and managed to get ourselves dry if not our clothes!

One sight I will never forget is seeing the southern tip of Sumatra outlined against the dusk with a line of eerie glows like giant fireflies waiting to pop up over the horizon. In reality, they were a line a squid fishing boats which use super bright lights to attract the squiddies, but the lights make the boats visible before they are over the horizon. We have seen loads of these in the last few nights as well as lots of other shipping traffic - from little rowing boats to a mini junk to tugs with 1000m long tows! We had a close call with a towing tug last night. The tug was lit up and we went to pass behind it leaving plenty of room only to discover, in the nick of time, that there was an unlit barge attached to the back of it on a long tow and with no warning! A quick 'bear-away' by the helm, though, meant all was ok!

Night watch has been particularly nerve racking too. At night the only way we can see a squall is on the radar and, only then, if there is rain in it which there often isn't. On watch the other night, moments after the all clear was given on the radar, a massive gust hit with no warning at all. Little Pete was on the helm and fought the wheel to bear away but the boat had other ideas and almost laid itself down flat on the water. We can't count it as a real knock down as the mast didn't get wet but we must have been heeled over at about 80degs! The other watch were rudely woken up to find themselves being acquainted with either their side locker (personal storage pocket in the hull down the length of your berth) or their lee cloths (a piece of material stretched across the outside of your bunk to stop you rolling out)! Yesterday morning was another bad watch for the others and they had a bad squall too. Unfortunately, they got rain as well! They were headed up but managed to recover in time to prevent a knock-down although the gust did blow 3 of the mainsail sliders out of the track on the mast. So all the sails had to be dropped while these were repaired. If anybody was watching us on the race veiwer, that was what the crazy figure of eight we did was all about! We spent about 2 hours with no sails up and then a typical 'calm after the storm' lasted most of the morning.

Jamaica Lightning Bolt hove to in the Java Sea carrying out Mainsail repairs

Since entering the Straits we have been treated to fantastic displays of lightning every night. Usually in the distance, but last night was a spectacular show with sheets of lightning lighting up the sky all around us at very regular intervals! I hasten to add that the boats are fully earthed but we have not even been close to being struck!

Less than 24hours to go before we cross the finish line and everybody is getting very excited! It's been very close between us, Cape Breton and Spirit of Australia. We have passed very close to both of them on a few occasions. The closest was with the Australian boat when we were only about 50 metres away - close enough to give our fanous 'lightning bolt' signs and call 'Ozzy, Ozzy, Ozzy!' and for Belinda to wave to her beloved Mike on the Austalia boat!

Unfortunately, not all the boats are enjoying the racing as much as we are. There are two messages you don't want to hear on the radio from a boat at sea. They are 'Mayday', which means a life-threatening emergency, and 'Pan Pan', which means emergency but with no immediate threat to life. When the 'Pan Pan' message from the Cork boat was heard over the radio, we all went very quiet because we knew instantly there was something seriously wrong. Cork had gone aground and was stuck fast on a reef close to a small island we had to pass on our route to Singapore. The closest boat, Team Finland, immediately went to the scene to give assistance followed by some of the other boats as they came up to the island. Our offer to assist was stood down as we were too far away and other boats were already there. The island is unlit and the depths around it on the chart are a bit vague so the race organisers set a mandatory way-point to ensure boats kept clear of it. We gave it a very wide berth but Cork must have cut it fine and hit an uncharted rock. Eventually, the crew had to abandon to the life rafts as the boat was heeled over too far to be safe and they were picked up by Team Finland and California. We were so relieved to hear that everyone was safe and, as far as we know, no-one was injured. Many of us on a rather subdued Jamaica, I'm sure, were thinking 'It could have been any one of us!' As racing resumes, it is being assesed whether Cork can be salvaged or not. One thing is certain, if it can, it will not ready in time for the next leg of the race.

Cork lying aground and abandoned

Plans for the equator are slowly coming together and I'm sure that Jamaica will be celebrating with style - even if half the crew are a bit blase about it, having done it already! I will be on Mother watch and plan to make a special 'Equator-cake!'

Keep watching the race as it is still very close between us, Cape Breton and Australia. The other two are certainly keeping us on our toes and it is still anyone's race!